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EDUCATIONAL  TOYS 


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EDUCATIONAL  TOYS 

Consisting  Chiefly  of  Coping-Saw  Problems  for 
Children  in  the  School  and  the  Home 

by 

LOUIS  C.  PETERSEN,  B.  Sc. 

Director  of  Manual  Arts,  State  Normal  University, 
Carbondale,  Illinois 


PUBLISHED  BY 

THE  MANUAL  ARTS  PRESS 
PEORIA,  ILLINOIS 


COPYRIGHT 

LOUIS  C.  PETERSEN 

1920 


CONTENTS 


INTRODUCTION.  . 


Page 
5 


TOOLS  AND  SUPPLIES 7 


Bow  DRILL 


TRANSFERRING  DESIGNS 9 


WOODS 


9 


LAYING  OUT  WORK 10 

SAWING 10 

FASTENING  BASES.  .  .  11 


FASTENINGS  . . 


.  11 


COLORING  TOYS 12 

WORKING  DRAWINGS  AND  DIREC- 
TIONS   15 

The  Buzzer 16 

The  Shark  Puzzle 16 

Duck 18 

Goose 18 

Wild  Duck 20 

Hen 20 

Deer 22 

Cow 22 

Weasel 26 

Tiger 26 

Rocking  Rhino 28 

Minstrels 30 

Squirrel 32 

Pig 32 

Kangaroo '. . .  32 

Camel 36 

Giraffe 38 

Swan  Rocker 40 

Balancing  Peacock 42 

Toy  Dog 44 

Teddy  Bear 46 

Parrot..  .  48 


Page 

Doll's  Hobby  Horse 50 

Stern  Wheeler 50 

The  Weather-cock 50 

Arm-chair  and  Rocking-chair. ...   54 

Doll's  Cradle 54 

Doll's  Bed 56 

Doll's  Table 56 

Kites 58 

Wood  Choppers 60 

The  Bucking  Goats 60 

Pecking  Hens 60 

Acrobat 64 

Climbing  Sailor 64 

The  Jumping  Jack 68 

Balancing  Barrister 68 

The  Dancing  Rastus 70 

The  Spanking  Esquimaux 72 

Wabbler 74 

Falling  Teeter-Totter 76 

Tumbling  Tommie 78 

The  Busy  Pup 80 

The  Dinkey  Bird 82 

Pelican  Sewing  Stand 84 

Whirligig 86 

The  Cart 86 

The  Wagon 88 

Flying  Goose 90 

The  Dodo  Bird 92 

Rocking-horse  and  Rider 94 

Animated  Elephant 97 

The  Bucking  Mule 100 

Fox-and-Goose  Game 104 

Nine  Men's  Mill 106 

Disc  Puzzle 108 

Ball  Puzzle ..108 


APPENDIX 

Knots  and  Braids . 


Ill 


2065995 


INTRODUCTION 

purpose  in  sending  out  this  collection  of  toys  is  to  promote  among 
children  a  love  for  educational  occupation.  This  book  is  intended  to  be 
of  real  service  to  parents  and  teachers  who  are  intrusted  with  the  arduous 
responsibility  of  child -training.  It  is  with  this  object  in  view  that  the 
directions,  drawings  and  photographs  have  been  prepared. 

The  experience  of  almost  twenty  years  as  a  teacher  has  convinced  the 
author  that  only  when  the  child  approaches  subject-matter  with  interest 
and  enthusiasm  can  the  best  results  be  obtained.  Giving  a  child  an  oppor- 
tunity to  make  things,  arouses  his  interest;  therefore,  learning  by  doing  is  a 
most  effective  method  in  gaining  educational  ends. 

Toy-making  incorporates  this  method,  with  several  vital  elements  added. 
It  takes  into  account  the  child's  view-point,  his  proclivities  and  his  emo- 
tions. It  is  a  form  of  activity  that  appeals  strongly  to  his  fancy,  has  a 
direct  relation  to  his  environments,  and  is  within  the  range  of  his  mental 
grasp  and  constructive  ability.  His  wonderful  imagination  endows  the 
creatures  of  his  handiwork  with  life,  individuality  and  cunning.  The  toy 
problem  is  in  harmony  with  the  child's  resourcefulness,  his  powers  and  his 
interests. 

The  problems  contained  in  this  book  have  been  selected  from  those 
worked  out  in  the  Normal  Model  School.  They  have  been  tested  under 
ordinary  class-room  conditions.  To  survive  the  weeding-out  process,  a 
toy  has  had  to  meet  the  following  requirements: 

1.  It  must  be  within  the  child's  power. 

2.  It  must  excite  and  sustain  interest. 

3.  It  must  possess  educational  value. 

4.  It  must  be  adaptable  to  light-wood  construction. 

5.  It  must  conform  in  size  and  complexity  to  the 

limited  space  and  equipment  of  class-room 
conditions. 

In  his  early  years,  the  child  begins  tinkering  with  what  materials  and 
tools  he  can  find,  making  something.  The  wise  parent  and  teacher  will 
turn  that  healthful,  happy,  creative  instinct  into  good,  useful  channels. 
He  will  encourage  and  guide  the  child,  in  these  early  attempts,  by  sur- 
rounding him  with  congenial  conditions,  by  furnishing  him  suggestions, 
pictures,  drawings  and  such  other  aids  as  will  direct  him  to  occupational 


6  EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 

problems  of  educational  value,  and  by  providing  him  with  a  place  to  work, 
the  tools,  wood,  nails,  wire  and  other  necessary  equipment. 

One  advantage  in  connection  with  the  kind  of  educational  hand  work 
presented  in  this  book  is  that  it  can  be  carried  on  with  a  very  small  and 
inexpensive  equipment.  Moreover,  it  is  light,  clean  and  agreeable  in  every 
respect.  The  tools  are  safe  for  a  child  to  handle.  The  material  is  sub- 
stantial and  durable.  The  articles  made  are  firm,  strong  and  of  lasting 
quality.  They  become  an  excellent  means  for  providing  an  abundance  of 
entertainment,  and  constitute  most  acceptable  gifts,  promoting  as  much 
genuine  happiness  for  the  industrious  donor  as  for  the  fortunate  receiver. 

Toy-making  may  readily  be  adapted  to  class-room  conditions  and  a 
period  be  devoted  to  it  each  day.  Members  of  the  class  may  be  appointed 
to  distribute  the  tools  and  material  at  the  beginning  of  the  period,  and  col- 
lect them  at  the  end.  While  at  work,  each  pupil  should  stay  at  his  desk 
and  keep  it  neat  and  orderly.  When  not  in  use,  the  equipment  should  be 
locked  up  in  a  box  having  suitable  compartments  for  the  tools  and  mate- 
rials. 

The  teacher  who  is  to  conduct  the  class  should  be  thoroly  familiar 
with  the  work  and  should  have  made  each  model  before  taking  it  up  as  a 
class  problem.  The  work  as  a  whole  should  be  conducted  in  a  systematic 
and  quiet  manner;  concise  planning,  prompt  action,  and  accuracy  in  details 
should  be  insisted  upon.  The  cheerful  spirit,  the  formation  of  correct 
habits,  and  the  proper  regard  for  everything  and  everybody  should  be  cul- 
tivated along  with  skill  in  constructing  and  good  taste  in  coloring  the  toys. 

If  for  any  valid  reason  this  work  can  not  be  carried  on  in  the  school,  the 
teacher  should  encourage  the  pupils  to  do  it  as  home  work.  The  child  can 
buy  his  own  scroll  saw  and  colors,  and  furnish  his  own  wood.  The  work 
can  be  done  outside  of  school,  but  still  be  under  the  supervision  and  guidance 
of  the  teacher.  The  training  that  comes  thru  reading  and  interpreting 
directions  and  drawings,  and  carrying  out  the  instruction  in  every  detail,  is 
of  value  to  every  child,  no  matter  what  his  future  career  may  be. 

The  child  should,  therefore,  have  a  book  of  his  own,  giving  directions  and 
drawings.  Furthermore,  the  teacher  should  give  the  proper  amount  of 
credit  for  the  home  work. 

L.  C.  PETERSEN. 


TOOLS  AND  SUPPLIES 


r  I  ^HE  equipment  listed  below  is  suggestive  for  ordinary  class-room  condi- 
-*-  tions.     The  number  of  pupils  should  not  exceed  twenty-four. 

Tools  for  each  pupil: 

12"  rule. 

Coping-saw. 

Saw  -  bracket,    Fig.    1.      A   working 

drawing  of  the  saw-bracket  is  shown 

in  Fig.  2. 
A  water-color  brush. 


Fig.  2 

General  class  equipment  and  supplies : 

A  box  for  locking  up  equipment  and 

work. 

2  breast  drills. 
Iron  block  to  serve  as  anvil. 
6  quires  of  No.  1/2  sand-paper. 
Le  Page's  glue  in  two  one-pint  cans. 
1  gross  coping-saw  blades. 

1  Ib.  each  of  1/2",  3/4"  and  1"  brads. 

2  Ibs.  each  of  3/4"  No.  19,  1"  No.  18, 
1-1/4"  No.  17,  1-1/2"  No.  16,  and 
1-3/4"  No.  15  flat-headed  nails. 


Fig.  1 

Tools  for  every  four  pupils: 

Scissors. 

Compass. 

Water-color  pan. 

4^"  round-nose  pliers,  Fig.  4. 

5"  side-cutting  pliers. 

5  oz.  claw  hammer. 

8"  half-round  mill  file. 

Bow -drill,  cee  Fig.  3. 


Fig.  3 


EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 


1  Ib.  each  of  1/2",  5/8"  and  3/4"  brass 

escutcheon  pins. 
30  ft.  of  No.   12  copper-coated  steel 

wire. 
A  few  nails  of  various  sizes  for  making 

drills. 

Turpentine. 
Alcohol. 


Borax. 

Brushes  of  various  sizes. 

Paint — red,  yellow,  green,  blue,  black 
and  white  of  the  paints  to  be  used. 
Several  good  enamel  paints,  ready 
for  use,  are  on  the  market.  "Calci- 
mo"  is  cheaper,  but  not  so  conven- 
ient, as  it  must  be  prepared. 


Fig.  4 
BOW  DRILL 

The  bow  drill  is  useful  for  drilling  small  holes  in  wood,  and  may  easily  be 
made  by  a  child.  First,  procure  an  ordinary  thread  spool.  Push  a  round 
stick  six  inches  long  thru  the  hole  with  a  tight  fit.  Shape  the  top  of  the 
stick  to  a  point  (Fig.  3).  Drive  a  nail  into  the  other  end  of  the  stick.  Cut 
the  head  off  the  nail,  hammer  it  flat  at  the  end,  and  sharpen  it  with  a  file. 
In  this  way  a  drill  of  any  size  needed  for  the  work  can  be  made.  The  bow 
is  made  from  a  slender,  flexible  stick,  about  twenty  inches  long.  A  notch 


EDUCATIONAL     TOYS  9 

is  cut  at  each  end  where  the  ends  of  a  strong  string  are  securely  tied.  Slip 
the  bow  string  once  around  the  spool  and  spin  it.  The  top  end  of  the 
spindle  is  guided  in  a  shallow  hole  in  a  piece  of  wood  as  shown  at  H  in  Fig.  3. 
This  block  of  wood  is  held  in  the  left  hand  while  the  right  moves  the  bow 
back  and  forth,  spinning  the  spindle  and  drilling  the  hole. 

TRANSFERRING  DESIGNS 

THE  shapes  of  people,  animals  and  birds  on  the  plates  that  follow  are 
drawn  full  size.     They  are  intended  to  be  made  of  wood,  and  may  be 
transferred  by  any  one  of  the  following  methods : 

(a)  Place  a  piece  of  transparent  paper,  known  as  tracing  paper,  over  the 
drawing  in  the  book,  and  with  a  soft,  sharp  lead  pencil,  trace  all  the  lines  on 
the  drawing.     Cut  out  the  traced  shape  with  a  pair  of  scissors.     Place  it  on 
the  wood,  and  with  pencil  trace  along  the  edge  of  the  paper  pattern. 
(6)  Make  a  tracing  and  paste  it  on  the  wood. 

(c)  Place  a  piece  of  carbon  paper  on  the  wood,  carbon  side  down.     On  this, 
place  the  tracing  in  position  and  fasten  it  down  with  two  thumb  tacks. 
With  a  hard  pencil,  or  a  stylus,  go  over  all  the  lines  of  tracing.     Pressure 
should  be  applied  as  the  lines  are  being  traced  so  that  they  may  show  plainly 
on  the  wood. 

(d)  Rub  the  back  of  the  tracing  with  graphite  (the  lead  of  the  pencil). 
Place  it  on  the  wood,  and  with  a  hard  pencil,  or  a  stylus,  trace  the  lines. 

(e)  When  a  permanent  pattern  is  desired  for  class  use,  place  the  tracing  on 
a  piece  of  cardboard,  and  transfer  the  outline  by  method  c  or  d,  indicated 
above.     With  a  sharp,  pointed  knife  or  shears  cut  the  cardboard  accurately 
to  line.     Place  this  template  on  the  wood,  and  with  a  sharp  pencil,  held  ver- 
tically, draw  lines  around  the  edge  of  the  template.     This  method  serves 
well  for  class  work. 

WOODS 

OAVE  the  thin-wood  boxes  found  at  home.  Ask  the  store-keeper  to  save 
^  boxes  instead  of  burning  them.  A  rich  supply  of  wood  for  toy-making 
may  be  secured  in  this  way.  For  class  work,  it  will  be  necessary  to  buy  wood 
prepared  and  surfaced  to  dimensions.  The  thicknesses  most  convenient  for 
school  work  are  3/16",  1/4",  3/8",  1/2",  7/8". 

While  three-ply  wood  is  best  for  the  thin  stock,  the  single-ply  answers  the 
purpose  when  due  care  is  given  to  the  direction  of  the  wood  fibers — the 
grain.  Such  woods  as  maple,  elm,  birch,  cherry  and  bay  wood  are  very 
durable,  but  rather  hard  to  work.  Bass  wood,  poplar  and  sugar  pine  are 
easy  to  work,  are  preferable  in  school,  and  give  satisfactory  results. 


10  EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 

LAYING  OUT  WORK 

TT  is  important  to  have  the  patterns  placed  correctly  on  the  wood  so  that 
"*•  the  desired  result  may  be  reached.  One  of  the  things  sought  is  the  great- 
est possible  strength  in  the  parts  sawed  out.  The  grain  of  the  wood  should, 
therefore,  run  lengthwise  of  the  wood  where  the  parts  are  narrow.  Another 
thing  desired  is  the  economical  use  of  material.  The  patterns  should,  there- 
fore, be  so  arranged  on  the  wood  that  the  outlines  will  match  closely  to- 
gether and  thus  use  up  as  nearly  as  possible  all  surface  space  on  the  board. 
Generally,  it  is  advisable  to  place  the  larger  patterns  first,  beginning  near  a 
corner  of  the  board,  and  then  fit  in  the  smaller  patterns  on  the  intermediate 
spaces. 

Where  the  drawings  are  not  full  size,  the  dimensions  are  shown  in  inches 
or  fractions  of  an  inch.  Guided  by  the  figures,  the  outlines  of  the  object  may 
be  laid  out  directly  on  the  wood  by  ruler,  pencil  and  compasses.  In  laying 
out  the  different  shapes  on  the  wood,  attention  should  be  given  to  the  direc- 
tion of  the  grain  of  the  wood,  to  have  it  run  lengthwise  the  object,  not  cross- 
wise. 

SAWING 

A  FTER  the  different  shapes  have  been  properly  laid  out  on  the  wood, 
•^"^  the  next  thing  to  do  is  to  saw  them  out  with  a  coping-saw.  The  wood 
is  placed  flat  on  a  saw-bracket,  pattern  side  up.  This  saw-bracket  is  fast- 
ened to  the  edge  of  a  desk  or  a  table  top  and  should  be  adjusted  in  height  so 
the  top  of  it  is  about  6"  below  the  child's  chin.  The  child  may  stand  or  sit, 
when  at  work,  whichever  is  most  comfortable,  but  a  standing  position  gives 
more  freedom  of  movement. 

The  wood  is  held  and  guided  on  the  saw-bracket  with  the  left  hand,  while 
the  right  hand  operates  the  coping-saw  with  an  up-and-down  motion  in  the 
V-shaped  opening  in  the  bracket. 

The  coping-saw  is  the  principal  tool  needed  for  this  work,  and  may  be 
purchased  with  extra  blades  for  about  25  cents.  The  frame  is  made  of 
spring  steel  and  holds  the  blade  in  tension.  By  pressing  the  frame  against 
the  edge  of  a  table,  it  may  readily  be  sprung  enough  to  allow  the  blade  to  be 
put  into  the  slots  in  the  ends  of  the  frame.  There  is  a  pair  of  end  slots  and  a 
pair  of  side  slots  in  the  frame.  The  blade  may  be  inserted  into  these  slots 
with  either  the  teeth  edge  or  the  smooth  edge  of  the  blade  towards  the  frame. 
The  points  of  the  teeth  should  always  point  towards  the  handle  of  the  frame. 
The  frame  is  held  with  the  handle  down.  The  saw  does  the  cutting  as  it  is 
pulled  downward.  In  working  the  saw,  the  blade  must  be  kept  perpendicu- 
lar to  the  face  of  the  wood.  The  blade  should  never  be  forced  against  the 
wood,  as  that  will  cause  the  wood  to  tear,  and  leave  a  ragged  edge.  Saw 


EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 


11 


right  to  the  line.  Keep  the  saw  going  up  and  down  to  insure  freedom  and 
plenty  of  room  for  the  blade,  especially  in  turning  corners.  When  removing 
it  from  the  work,  do  not  attempt  to  twist  the  blade  or  let  the  frame  hang  on 
it,  as  the  blades  are  brittle  and  break  easily. 

When  an  opening  is  to  be  sawed  out,  bore  a  hole  in  the  middle  of  the  part 
to  be  cut  out,  remove  the  blade  from  the  upper  part  of  the  frame,  while  hold- 
ing it  in  place  in  the  lower  part  with  the  thumb  of  the  right  hand.  Slip  the 
blade  thru  the  hole  from  below,  and  replace  it  in  the  slot  while  pressing  the 
upper  part  of  the  frame  against  the  edge  of  the  desk.  When  the  opening 
has  been  cut,  the  saw  may  be  removed  by  reversing  the  operation.  In  all 
cases,  saw  the  edge  of  the  wood  to  a  finish  as  far  as  possible.  Rough  or 
fuzzy  edges  should  be  removed  by  filing  and  sand-papering. 

FASTENING  TO  BASES 

"\X7HERE  toys  have  bases,  they  should  be  made  of  two  or  more  thick- 
*  *  nesses,  one  overlapping  the  other.  The  lower  piece  should  be  thicker 
than  the  upper,  extending  a  distance  equal  to  the  thickness  of  the  upper 
part.  When  both  the  toy  and  the  base  parts  are  ready  to  fasten  together, 
hold  the  toy  in  a  vise,  with  its  feet  up,  and  drive  nails  thru  the  upper  part  of 
the  base  into  the  feet.  Then  fasten  the  top  to  the  lower  part  with  escutcheon 
pins.  Space  the  pins  accurately. 


Fig.  5 


FASTENINGS 

OEVERAL  methods  are  employed  in  fastening  parts  together  in  toy- 
^  making.  Where  parts  are  joined  together  permanently,  a  thin  coat  of 
liquid  glue  should  be  rubbed  on  the  joining  surfaces  with  a  small  paddle,  and 
then  fastened  with  several  brads.  Where  possible,  these  brads  should  reach 
thru  the  parts  just  enough  to  be  clenched  on  the  other  side  (A,  Fig.  5). 

A  movable  joint  is  secured  by  one  flat-headed  nail  which  acts  as  a  pivot, 
on  which  one  or  more  of  the  parts  turn.  The  nail  must  reach  thru  the  wood 
far  enough  to  allow  the  end  to  be  bent  back  like  a  staple  and  be  driven  into 
the  wood. 


12  EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 

A  loose  joint  is  required  in  some  toys  so  that  the  parts  may  swing  without 
friction.  A  flat -headed  nail  is  used  as  a  pivot,  and  holes,  a  little  bigger  than 
the  nail,  are  bored  thru  all  but  one  of  the  parts  to  be  joined  together.  The 
part  that  will  be  nearest  to  the  point  of  the  nail  has  no  hole  bored  in  it,  for  it 
should  fit  tight.  The  nail  must  reach  thru  the  joint  far  enough  so  that  it 
may  be  bent  back,  staple-like,  and  when  the  point  is  driven  back  into  the 
wood,  the  joint  should  swing  freely.  The  nail  may  be  bent  with  round-nose 
pliers  (B,  Fig.  5). 

COLORING  THE  TOYS 

r  I  "*HE  possibilities  that  may  be  achieved  in  beautifying  these  wooden  toys 
•*•  are  almost  limitless.  They  may  be  treated  as  design  problems,  thereby 
serving  as  a  means  of  training  the  taste  and  imagination  as  well  as  developing 
an  appreciation  of  space  relations  and  color  harmonies.  The  work  is  fas- 
cinating to  children  and  presents  an  excellent  opportunity  for  acquiring 
knowledge  and  skill  in  mixing  and  applying  colors.  Several  methods  are 
given  here.  The  choice  of  method  should  be  guided  by  the  child's  ability 
and  experience  in  doing  work  of  this  kind.  The  employment  of  striking  and 
brilliant  colors  will  enhance  the  charm  and  increase  the  artistic  effect. 

The  methods  of  coloring  are  arranged  in  the  order  of  their  difficulty  in 
manipulation : 

Method  No.  1.  Water  colors  may  be  used  to  color  the  wood,  but  only  a 
little  water  should  be  used  so  as  to  prevent  the  tendency  to  spread.  When 
the  toy  is  dry,  a  coat  of  shellac  may  be  applied  over  the  water  color.  This 
protects  the  wood  and  gives  the  toy  a  crisp  and  bright  appearance. 

Method  No.  2.  Of  the  calcimine  paints,  the  one  known  as  "Calcimo"  may 
be  used  successfully  by  children.  It  is  procured  in  powder  form  and  costs 
from  15  to  50  cents  a  pound  according  to  color.  It  is  mixed  with  water  that 
contains  a  binder  to  prevent  the  colors  from  rubbing  off  in  handling  the  toys. 
The  binder  may  be  either  glue  or  mucilage  mixed  with  the  water.  The 
proportion  is  about  a  tablespoonful  of  glue  to  a  quart  of  water.  In  pre- 
paring the  colors,  put  a  teaspoonful  of  powder  in  a  water-color  pan  and  add 
water,  while  stirring  and  rubbing  out  the  lumps,  till  the  mixture  comes  to  a 
consistency  of  thick  cream.  It  may  then  be  applied  with  a  No.  6  water- 
color  brush. 

Method  No.  3.  When  handled  correctly,  oil  paint  and  enamel  paint  give 
excellent  results,  producing  a  smooth,  brilliant  gloss.  First,  give  the  toy  a 
coat  of  white  lead  or  flat  white  tone.  Apply  it  with  a  flat  sash  brush  about 
an  inch  wide.  Allow  the  toy  to  dry  four  or  five  days  and  then  sand-paper  it 
smoothly  with  No.  1/2  sand-paper.  Finally,  give  it  a  coat  of  enamel  paint 
of  the  colors  desired. 


EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 


13 


If  colored  enamel  is  not  at  hand,  use  white  enamel  and  add  colors  ground 
in  oil.  The  enamel  paint  is  put  on  a  surface  with  a  large  camel-hair  brush. 
Use  No.  10  artist's  flat  brush  for  features.  Natural  details  and  life-like  effects 
should  be  avoided. 

The  features  should  be  conventionalized.  Eyes,  ears,  nose  and  mouth 
may  be  dotted  in  with  a  tooth-pick. 

Method  No.  4-  For  a  second  coat,  instead  of  using  enamel  for  coloring, 
white  lead  ground  in  oil  may  be  used,  mixed  with  colors  ground  in  oil.  This 
produces  a  mat  or  dull  finish  that  is  quite  pleasing.  However,  if  a  gloss 
finish  is  desired,  a  coat  of  varnish  may  be  applied  over  the  dull  color.  Dry 
colors  may  be  mixed  with  shellac  varnish  until  it  is  heavy  enough  to  cover 
the  wood.  If  this  mixture  becomes  too  thick  to  spread  smoothly,  it  may  be 
thinned  with  alcohol.  The  brush  that  has  been  used  in  varnish  may  be 
cleaned  by  washing  in  borax  water.  When  the  joints  are  movable,  it  is  ad- 
visable to  paint  each  part  separately  before  putting  them  together.  Where 
glue  has  been  used  to  form  joints,  it  should  be  thoroly  dry  before  the  toy  is 
painted. 


WORKING  DRAWINGS  AND  DIRECTIONS 

TN  BEGINNING  the  construction  of  these  toys,  read  the  directions  care- 
•*•  fully  so  as  to  understand  the  process  of  construction.  Study  how  you 
can  best  arrive  at  the  desired  results.  By  thinking  ahead,  as  you  proceed, 
many  mistakes  may  be  prevented. 

Be  careful  in  making  your  drawings. 

Keep  your  pencil  sharp. 

Be  precise  in  making  measurements. 

Handle  the  tools  with  care. 

Finish  one  job  before  starting  another. 

Have  a  place  for  your  tools. 

Keep  your  glue  and  wood-finishes  well  covered  to  prevent  drying. 

Keep  your  brushes  in  kerosene  to  prevent  them  from  getting  stiff. 

Be  clean  in  handling  colors. 

Let  one  color  get  dry  before  joining  on  another. 

Let  the  colors  join  on  sharp  and  definite  lines. 

Pick  up  only  a  small  amount  of  color  with  the  brush-. 

Lay  the  color  on  in  a  thin  coat. 

Clean  your  brushes  before  putting  them  away. 

Give  your  work  that  clean,  crisp,  snappy  appearance  which  is  the  mark  of 
superior  craftmanship. 


16  EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 

THE  BUZZER 

This  toy  is  made  from  1/4"  stock.  Two  1/8"  holes  are  located  on  a 
straight  line  passing  thru  the  center,  one  on  each  side  of  the  center  and  1/4" 
from  it.  The  circle  is  drawn  with  compass,  and  then  sawed  to  the  line. 

The  circumference  is  stepped  off  into  lengths  equal  to  the  radius,  and  every 
second  point  connected  by  line  with  the  center.  This  divides  the  surface 
into  three  equal  spaces  called  sectors.  Color  each  sector  with  one  of  the 
primary  colors — red,  blue  and  yellow. 

A  strong  cord  is  slipped  thru  the  two  holes,  and  the  ends  tied  together  in  a 
square  knot,  leaving  a  loop  on  each  side  of  the  wheel. 

To  operate  the  buzzer,  insert  a  finger  of  each  hand  in  the  loops  and  swing 
the  disk  around  in  a  circular  motion  till  the  strands  of  the  cord  are  twisted 
together.  Then  pull  hard  on  the  cord  so  that  the  disk  will  be  set  into  a 
spinning  motion  as  the  cord  is  being  unwound.  At  this  instant  slacken  the 
cord  so  that  the  disk  may  continue  turning,  and  rewind  the  string.  Then 
pull  on  the  cord  again,  and  the  disk  will  spin  in  the  opposite  direction.  By 
whirling  the  disks  rapidly  in  this  way,  the  colors  will  blend  and  show  a  new 
color  produced  by  the  three  primary  colors.  The  other  side  of  the  wheel 
may  have  half  of  it  colored  yellow  and  half  colored  blue.  This  will  blend 
into  green  when  spun.  By  pasting  paper  sectors  of  different  colors  on  the 
wheel,  an  infinite  number  of  tests  in  color-blending  may  be  made. 

THE  SHARK  PUZZLE 

The  shark  is  sawed  out  as  shown  in  the  drawing  and  three  holes  bored. 

To  make  one  of  the  rings,  draw  two  concentric  circles — one  1/2"  radius 
and  the  other  3/4"  radius.  First,  saw  out  the  inner  circle  and  then  the 
outer. 

Take  a  piece  of  cord  a  foot  long,  double  it  and  slip  the  loop  thru  the 
middle  hole  in  the  shark.  Next,  put  the  two  ends  of  the  cord  thru  the  loop. 
Slip  a  ring  on  each  end  of  the  cord,  and  tie  with  a  slip  knot  into  the  end  hole 
in  the  shark. 

Puzzle:     Transfer  a  ring  from  one  end  to  the  other. 


<SHARK 
PUZZLE 


18 


EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 


DUCK 

The  parts  for  this  fowl  are  sawed  out  of  1/4"  stock.  The  edges  should  be 
sawed  square  and  to  line,  and  may  be  made  smooth  and  slightly  rounded  by 
filing  and  sand-papering. 

The  two  feet  should  be  made  alike  and  held  together  when  the  hole  for  the 
nail  is  drilled  thru  them.  The  bottom  of  the  feet  will  then  be  on  the  same 
level,  and  the  duck  will  stand  upright.  Put  a  fine  1"  nail  thru  one  foot, 
drive  it  thru  the  body,  at  the  proper  place,  and  press  it  thru  the  other  foot. 

With  round -nose  pliers,  bend  the  end  of  the  nail  around  so  the  end  will 
point  toward  the  wood  (Fig.  5).  Place  the  head  of  the  nail  against  a  block 
of  iron,  and  with  the  hammer  drive  the  point  of  the  nail  into  the  foot.  The 
joint  should  be  firm  and  movable  so  the  duck  will  stand  at  different  postures. 

Color  the  body  brown,  with  black  outlines  and  streaks  on  the  wings,  the 
bill  yellow,  the  head  green,  and  the  feet  red. 


Fig.  6.     Platform  Bases. 

GOOSE 

This  project  may  be  made  of  3/8"  stock  and  fastened  to  a  platform  base 
(Fig.  6). 

The  platform  is  made  of  two  rectangular  pieces  one  on  top  of  the  other. 
The  upper  is  1-1/2"  by  2-1/4";  the  lower,  2-1/4"  by  3".  The  grain  in  the 
two  pieces  should  cross  to  prevent  warping. 

To  fasten  the  goose  to  the  platform,  outline  on  the  upper  piece  of  the  plat- 
form the  position  for  the  foot.  Hold  the  goose  with  foot  up.  Drive  1-1 /2" 
brads  thru  the  upper  piece  of  the  platform  into  the  foot. 

On  the  upper  side  of  this  upper  piece  of  the  platform,  locate  points  at  each 
corner,  1/4"  from  the  outer  edges,  and  drive  5/8"  escutcheon  pins  thru  it 
into  the  lower  piece  of  the  platform. 

Smooth  all  parts,  and  color  the  body  white  with  black  trimmings.  Make 
the  bill  yellow,  the  feet  red  and  the  platform  green. 


DUCK 


20  EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 

WILD  DUCK 

The  body  may  be  cut  from  3/8"  stock,  or  from  heavier  material  if  so  de- 
sired. It  may  be  whittled  to  natural  shape  with  a  pocket  knife  before  fasten- 
ing it  onto  the  platform. 

The  bill,  eye  and  feet  are  colored  yellow,  throat,  breast  and  tail  red,  head 
and  wings  dark  green,  and  platform  blue. 

HEN 

The  construction  of  this  problem  is  similar  to  that  of  the  goose.  Her  feet 
and  comb  are  colored  red,  body  white  with  black  trimming,  beak  and  plat- 
form yellow. 


WILD  DUCK 


HEN 


22 


EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 


DEER 

The  stock  is  3/8"  thick,  the  grain  running  vertical.  It  should  be  mounted 
on  a  wheel  base  3/8"  by  2"  by  5-1/2"  (Fig.  7).  The  deer  is  colored  reddish 
brown,  but  nearly  white  under  the  body  and  on  the  lower  parts  of  the  legs. 
Color  the  base  black  and  the  wheels  red. 


Fig.  7.     Wheel  Base. 


COW 


The  stock  is  3/8"  thick.  The  grain  of  the  wood  should  run  vertical.  The 
cow  should  be  mounted  on  a  wheel  base  3/8"  by  2"  by  5-1/2".  Wheels  are 
3/8"  thick,  1-1/2"  diameter.  This  is  a  Jersey  cow,  and  should  be  colored 
accordingly.  The  base  may  be  colored  green,  and  the  wheels  red. 


o 
O 


26  EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 

WEASEL 

This  little  creature  is  wary  and  swift  as  lightning  in  its  movements. 

The  stock  should  be  1/4"  thick,  the  grain  running  lengthwise  of  the  body. 
It  may  be  mounted  on  rocker  base  1/4"  by  1-1/2"  by  5"  (Fig.  8.  See  text  on 
''Minstrels,"  page  30).  It  is  reddish  brown  with  under  part  of  body  light. 


Fig.  8.      Rocker  Bases. 


TIGER 


This  may  be  treated  in  the  same  way  as  the  weasel  except  the  coloring. 
Examine  a  tiger  in  the  zoo,  or  look  up  some  colored  pictures  of  tigers  so  you 
will  know  just  how  to  draw  his  stripes  and  just  what  color  to  make  them. 


28 


EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 


ROCKING  RHINO 

The  rhinoceros  should  be  cut  out  and  colored  and  mounted  on  a  platform 
which  has  rockers  fastened  to  its  edges  (Fig.  8). 

Hold  the  animal  in  the  vise,  head  down,  and  nail  thru  the  platform  into 
the  feet. 


30 


EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 


MINSTRELS 

The  stock  for  the  two  minstrels,  the  platform  and  the  rockers  is  1/4" 
thick,  with  the  grain  of  the  wood  running  lengthwise  in  each  object. 

The  bottom  of  the  feet  of  the  figures  should  fit  squarely  onto  the  platform. 
The  rockers  are  laid  off  with  the  compass.  The  center  of  the  arc  is  on  a 
separate  piece  of  wood  of  the  same  thickness  as  the  rocker. 

When  the  rockers  are  accurately  finished  and  nailed  to  the  platform,  a 
center  line  is  drawn  along  the  under  side  of  the  platform,  and  points  located 
to  match  the  position  of  the  feet  of  the  figures.  Use  3/4"  brads  and  drive 
them  thru  the  platform.  Hold  the  figures,  heads  down,  in  the  vise,  or  in 
clamps,  and,  in  turn,  drive  the  brads  thru  the  feet  and  into  the  legs  so  that 
the  figures  will  stand  in  an  upright  position.  They  are  then  colored  in  such 
brilliant  attire  as  is  becoming  two  gay  minstrels. 


.Eaui-^-^-4 


EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 

SQUIRREL 

The  squirrel  is  generally  regarded  as  being  wary  and  wild.  Still,  by  wise 
and  kind  treatment,  its  timidity  can  be  overcome,  and  it  may  become  quite 
tame.  All  parts  of  the  squirrel  may  be  made  from  1/4"  stock.  Saw  out  the 
body,  two  fore,  two  hind  legs  and  a  nut. 

Hold  each  pair  of  legs  together  in  boring  holes  thru  them.  Smooth  the 
parts  and  assemble  them  by  firm  movable  joints. 

Color  throat  and  breast  light  gray,  and  the  remainder  brown. 


PIG 

This  problem  is  worked  out  similar  to  the  squirrel.     It  may  be  colored 
red,  black  or  white,  with  large  spots. 


KANGAROO 

This  animal  has  its  home  in  Australia,  where  the  birds  are  songless  and  the 
trees  give  no  shade. 

It  has  a  very  powerful  tail  which  serves  with  the  two  long  hind  legs  as  its 
support  and  for  making  enormous  bounds.  The  fore  legs,  much  like  arms, 
are  used  with  surprising  dexterity  by  this  strange  animal.  The  nose,  throat 
and  breast  are  very  light,  the  rest  of  the  body  is  reddish  brown. 


SQUIRREL 


PIG 


KAHGAROO 


36 


EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 
CAMEL 


It  is  with  significance  that  this  beast  is  called  the  ship  of  the  desert.  Like 
a  ship  crossing  a  wide  ocean  of  water,  the  camel  travels  across  a  great  ex- 
panse of  sand  carrying  heavy  loads  of  freight. 

It  has  a  wonderful  endurance  and  can  go  for  a  week  without  drinking, 
subsisting  on  the  coarse  grass  of  that  waste  region,  and  the  water  stored  up 
in  its  humps.  Its  dreamy  eyes,  sullen  nature,  angular  figure  and  neutral 
grey-brown  color — all  seem  to  resemble  the  rocky  desert  itself. 


CAMEL 


38 


EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 


GIRAFFE 

This  creature  (Fig.  9)  is,  unquestionably,  the  tallest  of  all  the  beasts  of  the 
forests  of  Africa.  It  does  not  stoop  to  obtain  its  living  from  the  ground, 
but  browses  on  the  tops  of  trees. 

It  is  also  called  the  camelopard,  suggesting  a  resemblance  in  shape  to  the 
camel  and  in  color  to  the  leopard. 

It  is  cream-colored  with  a  shower  of  dark-brown  spots  on  its  back  and 
sides. 


Fig.  9. 


GIRAFFE 


40 


EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 


SWAN  ROCKER 

All  the  parts  may  be  made  from  1/4"  stock.  The  two  sides  are  made  like 
the  pattern.  The  seat  is  2-1/4"  wide,  the  back  2-1/2".  Both  are  3"  long, 
and  serve  to  unite  the  two  sides. 

When  the  parts  are  finished  and  ready  for  assembling,  mark  on  the  sides 
the  exact  location  of  seat  and  back ;  also  the  position  of  each  nail  on  all  parts. 
Hold  the  two  sides  together  and  make  small  holes  thru  them  where  the  nails 
are  to  be  driven.  Nail,  in  turn,  the  seat  and  back  to  the  first  side,  and  then 
to  the  second  side. 

Color  white  and  decorate  appropriately. 


42 


EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 


BALANCING  PEACOCK 

Saw  out  the  shape  of  the  fowl  as  outlined  in  the  drawing. 

There  is  good  chance  for  display  of  fine  color  in  dark-green  and  blue.  The 
breast  should  be  colored  brown. 

Make  a  small  stick  about  2"  long  for  a  perch.  Drive  a  small  nail  into 
each  end  of  the  stick,  and  tie  the  ends  of  a  fine  cord  to  each  nail.  Press  a 
brad  thru  the  middle  of  the  stick  up  into  the  foot  of  the  peacock.  It  may 
then  be  hung  up  by  the  long  loop  of  the  string  and  swung  freely. 


PEACOCK 


44 


EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 


TOY  DOG 

This  dog  may  be  made  of  3/16"  or  1/4"  stock.  When  put  together,  the 
two  pieces  for  the  body  are  separated  by  the  head,  tail  and  two  circular 
pieces.  The  legs  are  fastened  to  the  outside  of  the  body  by  two  long  nails 
that  reach  thru  the  five  thicknesses.  The  ends  of  the  nails  are  bent  back. 

Smooth  the  parts  and  color  white,  with  large  black  spots  on  head,  back, 
tail  and  legs. 


TOY  DOG 


46  EDUCATIONALTOYS 

TEDDY  BEAR 

This  animal  has  two  pieces  for  the  body.  The  head  and  two  circular 
pieces  hold  these  two  pieces  apart.  The  head  and  legs  move  on  tight  joints 
so  that  the  bear  will  stay  in  the  desired  position. 


48 


EDUCATIO'NAL     TOYS 


PARROT 

This  may  be  made  of  1/4"  stock.  The  base  has  two  holes  bored  thru  it 
for  the  uprights  which  fit  tight  into  the  holes  (Fig.  10).  The  perch  is  1"  long 
and  has  a  brad  in  each  end  to  swing  on.  These  brads  fit  loose  thru  the  up- 
rights near  the  top  ends. 

The  parrot  is  sawed  out,  and  a  3/4"  brad  driven  up  thru  the  foot  which 
also  fits  into  a  hole  in  the  middle  of  the  perch. 

The  parrot  may  be  colored  white  with  black  trimmings,  yellow  beak  and 
eyes,  red  crest,  tail  and  foot.  The  wings  are  green. 

The  stand  should  have  a  green  base,  red  uprights  and  yellow  perch.  The 
bird  should  balance  well  and  swing  freely. 


PARROT 


50  EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 

DOLL'S  HOBBY  HORSE 

The  two  body  pieces  of  the  horse  with  rocker  are  sawed  from  1/4"  wood. 
The  seat  and  back  are  made  alike,  as  are  also  the  shelf  and  foot-rest.  The 
ends  of  these  four  pieces  should  be  at  right  angles  to  the  sides,  and  the  edges 
should  be  slightly  rounded. 

Mark  carefully  on  both  side  pieces  where  the  cross-pieces  are  to  be  fast- 
ened. Hold  the  two  together  and  make  fine  holes  thru  the  two  thicknesses 
where  the  nails  are  to  go  thru.  By  driving  the  brads  thru  these  holes,  fasten 
all  the  cross  pieces  to  one  side,  and  watch  that  the  brads  go  straight.  Then 
fasten  the  other  side  in  a  similar  way. 

Color  the  horses  white,  rockers  red,  and  seat  blue. 


STERN  WHEELER 

This  boat  is  sawed  out  according  to  the  drawing,  and  notches  cut  on  the 
arms  at  the  stern  as  a  place  for  the  rubber  band  which  serves  both  as  axle 
and  motive  power.  The  paddles  are  sawed  out  to  fit  together  to  form  a 
stern  wheel  with  four  paddles. 

The  elastic  is  made  in  a  double  loop  of  four  thicknesses,  one  of  which  is 
placed  in  each  of  the  four  angles  of  the  paddle.  By  twisting  the  elastic  band, 
power  is  stored  up  sufficient  for  the  boat  to  attain  a  fair  rate  of  speed.  A 
spool  serves  as  smoke-stack. 

Paint  the  boat  white  and  smoke-stack  red. 

THE  WEATHER-COCK 

This  fowl  may  be  made  of  3/8"  stock ;  a  shingle  will  do.  Let  the  grain  run 
vertically.  The  perch  may  be  made  of  similar  stock,  triple  thickness,  with 
the  middle  piece  short  to  allow  room  for  the  foot  of  the  rooster.  The  pieces 


u 

5 


h 
llJ 


s 


<o 


I 

M 


3       ic 


<5TERH 
WHEELER 


WEATHER  COCK 


o 

e> 


doo 


54  EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 

are  securely  fastened  together  with  nails,  and  a  hole  bored  in  the  other  end  of 
the  perch  for  a  metal  pivot,  on  which  it  should  swing  to  tell  the  way  the  wind 
blows.  Give  it  two  coats  of  paint,  using  brilliant  colors. 

ARM-CHAIR  AND  ROCKING-CHAIR 

These  two  doll's  chairs  are  similar  in  construction.  Make  them  from 
1/4 "  wood.  Saw  out  two  sides,  a  back  and  a  seat  for  each  chair.  Have 
edges  finished  accurately.  The  seats  are  alike  for  the  two  chairs.  The 
backs,  also,  are  alike,  except  that  the  one  for  the  rocker  is  1/4"  longer  than 
the  other.  Assemble  as  shown  in  dotted  lines,  and  fasten  with  1"  brads. 

The  chairs  may  be  colored  white  or  mahogany.  With  due  care  and  skill, 
this  furniture  may  be  made  very  attractive  and  valuable. 

DOLL'S  CRADLE 

Every  little  girl  loves  to  own  a  cradle  for  her  doll.  Here  is  one  that  is 
strong  and  pretty,  and  can  easily  be  made  from  thin  wood  about  1/4"  thick. 
Saw  out  the  two  ends  after  tracing  the  outline  from  the  full-sized  drawing. 
The  two  sides  and  bottom  have  their  dimensions  given.  When  properly 
shaped  and  smooth,  the  bottom  is  fastened  with  1"  brads  between  the  ends. 
One-inch  brads  are  driven  thru  the  sides  into  the  edges  of  the  ends.  Be 
careful  when  driving  the  brads  that  the  sides  do  not  split  and  that  the  brads 
go  straight. 

Paint  the  cradle  white  on  the  outside  and  violet  or  pink  inside. 


DOLLVS  CRADLE, 


BOTTOM  3*6 


56  EDUCATIONALTOYS 

DOLL'S  BED 

This  is  a  problem  that  will  appeal  to  the  little  girl.  It  is  also  needed  to 
complete  the  set  of  doll's  house  furniture.  It  is  made  of  1/4"  wood  and 
fastened  with  I"  brads.  The  grain  should  be  run  from  top  to  bottom  in  the 
ends  of  the  bed  and  lengthwise  in  sides  and  bottom. 

The  parts  should  be  cut  out  of  paper  full  size  and  placed  on  the  wood  as 
patterns.  In  cutting  out  the  ends,  fold  the  paper  on  the  vertical  center  line 
so  as  to  cut  the  two  halves  at  the  same  time.  When  all  parts  are  sawed  out, 
fasten  the  bottom  to  the  two  ends,  and  then  put  the  sides  in  place.  The 
bed  is  colored  like  the  rest  of  the  furniture. 

DOLL'S  TABLE 

This  table,  being  part  of  the  furniture  set,  may  be  made  from  1/4"  stock. 
The  four  pieces  comprising  the  legs  are  made  from  two  paper  patterns  that 
are  laid  out  to  measure,  folded  on  the  vertical  center  line,  cut  out  sym- 
metrically, then  traced  on  the  wood,  sawed  out,  smoothed  and  fastened  to- 
gether with  3/4"  brads.  The  top  is  drawn  directly  on  the  wood  with  com- 
pass and  fastened  with  3/4"  brads,  centrally  on  the  legs. 

It  is  colored  white,  brown,  mahogany  or  some  other  shade  to  harmonize 
with  the  general  color  scheme  of  the  Doll's  House  and  its  furnishings. 


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58  EDUCATIONALTOYS 

KITES 

Kite-flying  is  known  the  world  over.  Every  boy  wants  to  make  and  fly  a 
kite.  It  is  a  sport  that  is  almost  limitless  in  its  possibilities. 

Kites  may  be  made  any  size,  of  almost  any  shape  and  with  all  sorts  of  deco- 
rations. The  two  models  here  presented  are  types  of  practical  fliers  and  are 
easily  made. 

One  needs  a  tail  to  steady  it  in  its  flight,  the  other  is  tailless,  but  has  the 
cross  rod  sprung  by  means  of  a  string  into  the  shape  of  a  bow.  The  wind  is 
caught  against  the  convex  surface  and  renders  it  steady.  In  the  making  of 
kites,  it  is  essential  that  a  few  things  be  observed: 

If  the  size  be  changed,  the  same  proportions  should  be  maintained.  Make 
the  wooden  stays  as  light  as  possible  consistent  with  strength. 

Be  sure  to  preserve  balance  both  in  distance  and  weight  of  the  various 
parts.  Make  the  cross-lap  joint  secure  by  driving  a  light  nail  thru  the  sev- 
eral thicknesses  and  bending  down  the  end;  then  tie  them  together  with 
strong  twine.  Cut  a  notch  in  the  outer  ends  of  the  stays  and  in  stringing  the 
twine  taut  prevent  it  from  slipping  by  tying  a  knot  around  the  stick  and  thru 
the  notch.  The  paper  should  be  very  light  and  strong.  It  is  doubled  over 
the  string  and  pasted  together. 

The  guy-strings  are  fastened  to  the  ends  of  the  wooden  stays  and  the  an- 
chor line  securely  tied  to  them  with  several  knots  directly  opposite  where  the 
stays  cross.  A  few  adjustments  in  point  of  balance  and  of  the  weight  of  the 
tail  may  be  necessary  in  starting  to  fly  the  kite,  but  after  they  are  made,  it 
should  rise  to  a  great  height  and  maintain  a  steady  flight. 


KlT£<3 


60  EDUCATIONALTOYS 

WOOD  CHOPPERS 

The  stock  required  is  1/4"  thick.  Two  bodies,  two  arms  with  axes,  and  two 
bars  are  needed  for  this  toy.  The  upper  bar  has  a  place  5/8"  from  its  center 
which  is  widened  to  resemble  a  tree  stump  an  inch  high.  The  pairs  of  parts 
are  held  together  while  holes  are  being  bored  thru  them.  The  shoulders  of 
the  men  and  arms  should  have  small  holes  to  make  a  fixed  joint  while  the 
men's  legs  and  the  bars  should  have  holes  closely  fitting  I"  nails. 

Both  bars  are  located  on  the  side  of  the  men  on  which  the  arms  are 
fastened. 

Color  the  coats,  hats  and  sleeves  blue,  boots  and  axes  black,  arms,  fingers, 
faces  pink,  and  trousers  red,  bars  green,  and  stump  brown. 


THE  BUCKING  GOATS 

From  1/4"  stock,  saw  out  two  bodies,  as  shown  in  the  full-size  drawing, 
and  two  bars  shown  in  the  dimensioned  drawing.  Place  the  two  bodies  to- 
gether and  bore  holes  in  the  hind  legs,  as  shown,  for  1"  nails.  Do  likewise 
with  the  two  bars.  Color  the  goats  white,  with  large  brown  spots  on  their 
backs,  necks  and  legs.  Color  the  horns  and  hoofs  black,  and  the  bars  gray 
or  brown.  Fasten  with  movable  joints,  one  bar  on  each  side  of  the  goats, 
having  them  cross  as  indicated  in  the  assembled  drawing. 

PECKING  HENS 

Saw  out  two  bodies  and  four  legs  for  the  two  hens.  Hold  two  legs  to- 
gether and  bore  five  fine  holes  thru  them  as  shown  in  the  drawing.  Then 
place  one  of  these  with  each  of  the  unbored  legs  and  bore  these,  using  the 
first  pair  as  template  for  boring  the  second.  Also  bore  holes  in  the  two  bodies 
together,  saw  out  the  two  bars  and  bore  the  holes  thru  the  two  together. 
Saw  out  the  upright  and  the  tilting  pans;  bore  holes,  and  fasten  together 
with  a  loose  joint.  Enlarge  the  two  lower  holes  in  legs  of  the  hens  to  the 


64 


EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 


size  of  a  I"  nail.  Fasten  two  legs  to  each  hen  with  three  3/4"  brads,  and 
clench.  Finish  the  parts  in  appropriate  contrasting  colors.  Place  the  two 
bars  between  the  legs  of  the  hens  and  insert  thru  the  holes  1"  nails,  bending 
their  ends  back  to  form  a  loose  joint.  Take  the  upright  and  the  pans,  and 
fasten  the  lower  end  of  the  upright  to  the  middle  of  the  upper  bar  so  that 
each  pan  will  tilt  when  the  hens  peck. 

ACROBAT 

The  body,  arms  and  legs  are  made  of  3/16"  wood.  After  the  acrobat  is 
sawed  out  and  holes  are  bored,  paint  the  parts  in  gay  colors.  Assemble  with 
loose  joints.  The  two  upright  sticks  are  fastened  to  the  cross  piece  by  two 
1"  brads  at  each  end,  after  the  two  holes  are  bored  in  the  upper  ends  for  the 
cord.  It  is  colored  green  or  black.  Insert  a  strong  double  cord  thru  the 
frame  and  the  hands  of  the  acrobat.  There  is  a  twist  in  the  cord  when  the 
legs  are  down,  but  it  is  straight  when  the  arms  point  down. 


CLIMBING  SAILOR 

This  nimble  tar  climbs  a  rope  according  to  a  style  that  is  all  his  own. 
Pull  on  the  string,  and  the  friction  on  the  two  nails  between  his  legs  being 
greater  than  that  between  his  hands,  his  hands  glide  upward.  Let  go,  and 
the  elastic  band  between  his  legs  and  arms  pulls  his  legs  up,  and  he  thus  gets 
a  fresh  grip. 

Saw  out  of  3/16"  stock  one  body,  two  arms  and  two  legs.  The  arms  are 
fastened  to  the  body  with  three  3/4"  brads  and  clenched.  The  legs  have  a 
loose  hip  joint  on  a  1"  nail  with  the  end  bent  back.  The  rubber  band  is  held 
between  arms  and  legs  by  two  nails.  The  string  is  held  between  two  thick- 
nesses of  felt  or  cardboard  that  are  fastened  between  the  hands  with  two 
brads  to  produce  the  required  friction.  Bore  holes  to  avoid  splitting.  The 
string  passes  down  between  the  two  legs  around  two  nails  that  pass  thru  both 
legs  but  do  not  pull  them  together.  Color  the  cap  white  and  suit  blue. 


ACROBAT 


BAILOR 


\\ 


68 


EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 


THE  JUMPING  JACK 

The  wood  should  be  3/1 6"  thick.  Two  of  each  pattern  is  required,  except 
the  head,  which  may  be  made  of  slightly  thicker  stock. 

Bore  the  holes  as  shown  to  form  loose  joints. 

Color  the  cap  and  body  blue,  thighs  and  upper  arms  yellow,  calves  and 
fore  arms  pink,  and  shoes  brown. 

Insert  small  nails  into  edge  of  arms  and  thighs  at  the  points  where  the 
strings  are  to  be  attached.  Take  two  pieces  of  string,  two  feet  long;  tie  the 
ends  of  one  to  nails  in  the  arms,  the  ends  of  the  other  to  the  nails  in  the  thighs. 
Insert  1"  nails  thru  one  of  the  body  pieces;  drive  3/4"  brads  thru  it  and  the 
neck;  place  arms  and  legs  in  position;  adjust  the  strings  to  proper  lengths, 
and  tie  a  knot  on  them.  Place  the  other  body  piece  in  position.  Bend  back 
the  ends  of  the  nails,  making  loose  joints,  and  drive  the  brads  thru  the  neck 
into  the  second  body  piece,  and  clench.  Fasten  the  legs  together  with  loose 
joints,  and  all  should  work  freely. 


12- 


Fig.  11. 

BALANCING  BARRISTER 

The  body  may  be  sawed  from  3/8"  stock  as  outlined  in  the  drawing. 
Find  its  center  of  gravity  by  balancing  it  on  a  knife  edge,  crosswise,  and  then 
lengthwise.  Draw  lines  along  the  knife  edge  where  it  balances.  Where 
these  intersect  is  the  center  of  gravity.  Bore  a  hole  at  this  point  of  inter- 
section perpendicular  to  the  body,  and  so  as  to  fit  tight  on  a  1/4"  dowel  rod. 
Make  two  discs  1"  diameter,  1/4"  thick,  with  a  hole  to  fit  tight  on  the  dowel 
on  each  side  of  the  man. 

Color  his  shirt  red,  hat  and  trousers  blue,  arms  and  stockings  white,  and 
dowel,  shoes  and  parallel  bars  black. 

The  frame  on  which  the  man  should  balance  (Fig.  11),  with  his  head  just  a 
little  the  lighter,  is  made  of  seven  pieces.  The  base,  1/2"  x  2"  x  1 2" ;  the  four 


BARRISTER 


70 


EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 


uprights,  I/A"  x  1"  x  5-3,  4",  and  the  two  bars,  3/8"  x  3/4"  x  IS",  are  firmly 
fastened  together  so  that  the  two  bars  will  be  parallel  and  horizontal. 

When  the  man  is  properly  balanced,  which  may  be  accomplished  by  whit- 
tling off  a  little  stock  where  needed,  he  should  roll  from  end  to  end  of  the  bars 
by  giving  the  dowel  a  twist  between  two  fingers. 


THE  DANCING  RASTUS 

All  parts  of  the  body  are  of  3/16"  stock.  When  sawed  out,  the  parts  are 
colored  separately  and  assembled.  All  joints  should  swing  without  friction. 
Therefore,  bore  all  holes  larger  than  the  nail, 
thru  all  thicknesses,  except  the  one  nearest 
to  the  point  of  the  nail.  At  elbows  and 
knees  have  the  heads  of  the  nails  on  the  in- 
side. At  the  shoulders  place  a  small  wheel 
between  the  arms  and  body,  and  use  a  1- 
1  2"  nail  for  pivot,  with  plenty  of  play. 
The  platform  (Fig.  12)  is  of  thin,  springy 
wood,  1-1/2"  wide  and  9"  long.  The  up- 
right post  is  of  1/2"  stock  about  6"  long 
and  securely  nailed  to  the  platform  and 
braced  with  a  small  block.  Holes  are  bored 
into  Rastus'  back  and  the  post  so  as  to  fit 
tight  on  No.  16  spring  brass  wire,  5"  long. 
Put  a  weight  on  the  rear  end  of  the  platform, 

let  the  front  end  project  out  over  the  edge  of  a  table  and  set  it  vibrating. 
This  should  cause  Rastus  to  swing  legs  and  arms  in  a  merry  fashion. 


DANCIWG 


72 


EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 


THE  SPANKING  ESQUIMAUX 

The  stock  for  all  parts  is  1/4"  thick  except  for  the  oar  and  broom  which 
should  be  1/8"  thick.  Saw  out  the  two  figures,  wheels  and  bars.  Hold  the 
two  wheels  together  and  bore  two  holes  for  the  pivot  nails.  Do  similarly  to 
the  bars.  Assemble  wheels  and  bars  temporarily  to  mark  places  on  the 
wheels  where  the  feet  of  the  figures  will  be  fastened.  Saw  out  the  oar  and 
broom.  Color  all  the  parts  separately  in  bright  contrasting  values  to  bring 
out  the  outlines  of  the  arms  and  other  parts  of  the  figures.  Fasten  the 
wheels  to  the  feet,  the  bars  to  the  wheels  in  loose  joint,  and  the  oar  and 
broom  to  the  man  and  woman  in  positions  indicated  by  the  dotted  lines. 

When  properly  put  together,  the  figures  should  swing  when  the  bars  are 
moved  back  and  forth,  and  the  oar  and  broom  go  flying  and  strike  with  a 
rattling  bang. 


<5PAMKI7IG  ESQUIMAUX 


6 


I 


74 


EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 


WABBLER 

This  toy  is  made  so  that  the  wabbler  can  go  or  glide  down  the  ladder  on  his 
elbows.  The  ladder  is  made  from  soft  wood  3/8"  to  1/2"  thick,  2-1/2"  wide, 
and  20"  long.  The  openings  are  cut  as  shown,  and  nails  located  and  driven 
in  exactly  as  indicated  in  the  drawing.  The  ladder  is  then  securely  fastened 
to  the  base  which  is  made  of  3/4"  wood,  3-1/2"  square.  The  wabbler  is 
sawed  out  of  1/4"  wood.  A  full-sized  drawing  is  shown.  This  is  all  one 
piece  without  openings.  Features  and  parts  of  the  body  are  to  be  worked 
out  by  using  paints  of  different  colors. 


76 


EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 


FALLING  TEETER-TOTTER 

The  stock  for  the  upright  piece  and  end  supports  is  3/8"  thick ;  that  for  the 
two  boys  and  teeter-totter  is  1/4"  thick.  The  upright  is  made  1"  wide  and 
28"  long.  On  the  center  line  lay  off  points  1-3/8"  apart.  With  these  as 
centers,  draw  semi-circles  of  1"  radius  alternately  on  both  sides  of  center  line. 
From  each  center  draw  lines  tangent  to  the  circles,  as  shown  in  the  drawing. 

Saw  to  these  lines  and  curves,  and  finish  the  edges  so  that  they  are  smooth. 
Saw  out  two  boys  and  the  teeter-totter  board  (B,  Fig.  13),  cutting  out  the  cen- 
ter opening  accurately.  Slip  this  board  onto  the  upright,  and  watch  it  fall 
from  top  to  bottom  in  a  see-saw  motion.  If  it  fails  to  travel  smoothly,  see 
where  the  rub  is  and  remove  the  obstacle.  Fasten  the  two  pairs  of  cross  pieces 
to  each  end  of  the  upright  so  that  it  will  stand  vertically  on  either  end. 

Give  it  a  thin  coat  of  paint.  Color  the  boys  and  fasten  them  with  a  nail 
thru  the  body  of  each  boy,  fitting  loosely,  and  driven  into  the  ends  of  the 
board.  When  the  see-saw  is  turned  up-end  down,  the  boys  will  swing  on 
the  nails  and  keep  heads  up. 


Fig.  13. 


PALLIHG  TEETEK,  TOTTER 


8 


CD 


78 


EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 


TUMBLING  TOMMIE 

This  problem  is  rather  unique  in  its  principle  of  operation  and  offers  at 
once  material  for  study  and  investigation.  Like  that  of  a  circus  performer, 
the  combinations  must  be  exactly  right  or  the  little  fellow  may  fall  on  his 
head.  In  making  the  man,  first  bore  the  holes  thru  the  block  and  take  care 
to  make  them  parallel.  The  openings  into  the  holes  from  the  ends  must  be 
in  the  same  plane  and  made  to  slide  over  the  rounds  of  the  ladder  without 
friction.  The  tumbler  may  be  shaped  and  colored  to  look  like  a  man.  A 
base  may  be  attached  to  each  end,  but  on  opposite  sides  of  the  ladder,  so  that 
Tommie  may  tumble  in  both  directions. 


Towmt 


80 


EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 


THE  BUSY  PUP 

All  parts  of  this  article  are  made  of  1/4"  wood  except  the  ears  which  should 
be  1/8"  thick.  Saw  out  one  body,  a  pair  each  of  fore  legs,  hind  legs,  ears  and 
tail,  and  the  push-rod  and  guide.  The  guide  is  made  of  four  pieces  and  fast- 
ened together  with  glue  and  brads,  as  shown  in  the  drawing.  The  two  pairs 
of  legs  are  fastened  to  the  body  by  loose  joints.  Holes  are  bored  thru  one 
end  of  the  push-rod  and  the  forefeet;  also  thru  the  projecting  end  of  the 
guide  and  hind  feet.  Fasten  that  end  of  the  guide  between  the  hind  feet 
with  loose  joint  (Fig.  14).  Insert  the  push-rod  thru  the  hole  in  the  guide, 
which  should  slide  easily,  and  fasten  between  the  fore  feet.  By  holding  the 
guide  in  the  left  hand  and  working  the  push-rod  back  and  forth,  the  dog 
should  work  freely  and  without  a  hitch  in  all  the  varied  positions  that  it  is 
possible  for  it  to  assume.  With  fine  brad  fasten  the  tail.  Bore  holes  thru 
head  and  ears,  and  pivot  them  on  a  loose  joint  so  that  they  will  swing  when 
the  pup  is  busy  scratching. 

The  pup  may  be  colored  white  with  black  spots  on  neck,  body  and  legs. 
The  push-rod  and  guide  may  be  finished  in  a  dark  color  or  black. 

The  stunts  that  this  pup  can  perform  are  greater  in  number  than  one 
would  suspect.  Furthermore,  they  increase  also  in  variety  as  the  child  ac- 
quires skill  in  manipulation. 


Fig.  14. 


82 


EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 


THE  DINKEY  BIRD 

When  properly  made  up,  this  bird  can  bob  its  head  and  tail  up  and  down. 
A  swinging  pendulum  supplies  the  motive  power.  The  parts  are  shown  in  the 
drawing  full  size,  except  the  clamp  that  holds  the  Dinkey  in  upright  position 
(Fig.  15). 

The  head,  tail  and  body  pieces,  one  with  and  one  without  the  leg,  are 
sawed  from  1/4",  the  back  (E)  from  5/16",  the  wedge  from  3/8",  and  the 
clamp  from  1/2"  stock.  Finish  all  edges.  Drill  1/16"  holes  at  A  and  B.  Put 
the  two  body  pieces  together  so  they  coincide,  and  drive  fine  1"  nails  thru  both 
of  them  at  C  and  D.  Then  separate  them  enough  to  let  the  back  (E)  into 
place  between  them.  Fasten  the  three  pieces  together  with  five  1"  brads, 
and  clench.  Fasten  clamp  (F)  securely  to  the  foot  at  H. 

Color  the  different  parts  in  gay  tints,  and  let  dry. 

Take  4  ft.  of  strong  twine  and  with  small  nails  fasten  one  end  to  the  head 
and  the  other  to  the  tail.  Pull  out  the  nails  at  C  and  D  enough  to  let  the 
head  and  the  tail  slip  into  their  places  between  the  body  pieces.  Then  re- 
insert the  nails.  The  head  and  tail  should  swing  freely,  and  the  back  (E)  act 
as  a  stop  in  their  up-and-down  motion. 

Put  the  clamp  onto  the  edge  of  a  table  top  and  fix  with  the  wedge.  Pull 
down  on  the  loop  of  the  string,  grasp  it  about  6"  from  the  top,  and  there  tie  a 
simple  knot.  Fasten  a  stone  or  a  piece  of  metal  to  the  loop.  Set  it  swinging 
and  watch  the  bobbing  performance  according  to  Dinkey  fashion. 


Fig.  15. 


DINKEY  BIRD 


84 


EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 


PELICAN  SEWING  STAND 

Whether  or  not  this  article  may  be  within  the  toy  class,  one  thing  is  cer- 
tain: It  is  useful  as  well  as  ornamental.  The  pelican  is  made  of  three  thick- 
nesses. The  middle  piece  is  3/8"  and  the  two  outside  ones  1/4"  thick.  The 
middle  piece  has  parts  cut  away  to  give  room  for  the  pin-cushion,  and  in  the 
head,  an  opening  is  left  to  give  place  for  scissors,  which,  in  turn,  serve  as  the 
bird's  beak.  The  cushion  is  stuffed  with  cotton  or  some  other  suitable  mate- 
rial, and  covered  with  a  double  thickness  of  thin  cloth,  and  fastened  in  place 
securely  by  nails  piercing  from  one  side  to  the  other. 

The  platform  is  six-sided  in  shape  (Fig.  16),  of  double  3/8"  thickness,  with 
grain  at  right  angles  in  the  two  pieces,  and  has  four  pins  extending  1-1/4" 
above  the  surface  for  holding  spools.  The  pelican  is  fastened  to  the  platform 
by  placing  the  upper  thickness  against  the  foot,  and  driving  1-1/2"  brads 
thru  and  up  into  the  foot.  Bore  holes  and  drive  the  pins  for  the  spools  thru 
the  upper  thickness.  Lastly,  the  bottom  board  of  the  platform,  which  ex- 
tends 3/8"  beyond  the  upper,  is  fastened  by  driving  3/4"  brads  thru  the  bot- 
tom piece  into  the  upper.  The  pelican  may  be  colored  with  white  enamel 
and  black  trimmings,  while  the  platform  may  be  light  green  or  blue. 

Besides  the  places  for  scissors  and  spools,  other  attachments  may  be  ar- 
ranged to  suit  the  convenience  of  the  happy  possessor. 


Fig.  16. 


PELICAN  <5E,WING  <5TAND 


86  EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 

WHIRLIGIG 

This  little  device  might  also  be  called  a  child's  aeroplane,  for  it  soars  up 
into  the  air  over  houses  and  trees,  and  makes  everybody  around  crane  his 
neck  in  wonder.  The  parts  consist  of  the  flyer,  a  spool  and  the  handle. 
First,  get  an  ordinary  thread  spool,  bore  two  holes  in  one  end  and  drive  in  two 
six-penny  nails.  Cut  off  the  heads  3/8"  from  the  end  of  the  spool  and  file 
the  ends  round  and  smooth.  Take  a  piece  of  strong  wood  (yellow  pine  will 
do)  about  1"  long  and  3/4"  square.  Whittle  down  one  end  for  a  distance 
3/8"  longer  than  the  length  of  the  spool  and  so  it  will  make  a  running  fit. 

For  a  flyer,  get  a  piece  of  soft  wood  3/8"  x  1-1/4"  x  8".  Bore  three  holes 
at  the  center  to  fit  onto  the  two  pins  on  the  spool  and  the  top  end  of  the 
handle.  Whittle  both  faces  down  to  a  slant  like  a  windmill  so  the  blades 
will  be  less  than  1/8"  thick.  Put  the  parts  together.  Wind  about  a  yard  of 
string  around  the  spool  in  the  proper  direction,  and  then  set  the  flyer  spin- 
ning by  pulling  the  string  quickly  off  the  spool.  If  all  parts  are  properly 
balanced  and  adjusted,  the  flyer  should  go  "way  up  high." 


THE  CART 

This  practical  project  is  of  heavier  stock  than  most  toys.  However, 
dimensions  and  sizes  of  stock  may  be  modified  to  suit  the  convenience  and 
wishes  of  the  maker.  The  box  may  be  of  3/8"  stock,  the  axle  and  tongue  of 
3/4",  and  the  wheels  of  1/2"  or  3/4". 

Heavy  round-headed  screws  with  washers  under  the  heads,  fitting  thru 
holes  bored  in  the  wheels  and  screwed  securely  into  the  ends  of  the  axle,  form 
the  bearings. 

Take  care  to  bore  the  holes  thru  the  wheels  and  into  the  ends  of  the  axle 
the  proper  size,  and  central  and  true. 

The  box  is  fastened  by  driving  1-1/4"  nails  thru  the  bottom  into  the  axle. 
The  tongue  is  shaped  to  fit  on  the  axle,  and  is  securely  fastened  by  nails  to 
the  axle  and  wagon  bottom. 


WHIRLIGIG 


88  EDUCATIONALTOYS 

A  handle  of  a  loop  of  brass  wire  may  be  inserted  thru  the  tongue  near  the 
small  end,  and  the  ends  bent. 

The  box  is  painted  green  and  wheels  and  tongue  red. 

THE  WAGON 

The  stock  required  for  the  box  of  the  wagon  is  1/4"  thick,  for  the  wheels 
3/8",  for  the  tongue  1/2",  and  for  the  axles  3/4".  The  axles  are  5-1/2"  long; 
the  rear  one  is  1"  wide;  the  front  one  is  7/8"  wide,  as  shown  in  the  drawing. 
The  holes  for  the  screws  in  the  ends  of  the  axles  are  bored  3/8"  from  the  lower 
side.  The  screws  are  heavy,  1-1/2"  round-headed,  with  metal  washers 
under  the  heads.  The  holes  in  the  wheels  are  bored  true,  and  so  that  they 
will  just  slip  over  the  screws. 

The  tongue  is  connected  with  the  front  axle  by  a  piece  of  tin,  cut  from  a  tin 
can  after  the  pattern  shown  on  the  drawing. 

The  cross  piece  between  the  wagon  box  and  the  front  axle,  called  the 
bolster,  is  1-1/8"  wide,  5"  long  and  3/4"  thick.  It  tapers  from  5"  in  length 
at  the  top  to  2-1/2"  at  the  bottom,  where  it  rests  on  and  turns  on  the  tin  that 
is  nailed  to  the  top  side  of  the  axle. 

Always  bore  holes  of  the  proper  sizes  before  inserting  screws. 

The  front  axle  is  connected  to  the  bolster  by  a  2"  round-headed  screw  on 
which  it  turns.  In  making  the  wagon  box,  the  sides  are  nailed  to  the  bot- 
tom, the  ends  fastened  in  position,  and  the  back  nailed  onto  the  edge  of  the 
seat. 

The  box  is  painted  green  outside  and  red  inside.  The  two  wings  of  the  tin 
plate  are  bent  down  to  fit  tight  onto  the  sides  of  the  tongue,  and  nails  are 
driven  thru  the  tin  into  the  tongue.  The  whole  running  gear  is  painted  red. 
The  box  is  nailed  to  the  bolster  and  to  the  rear  axle.  The  seat  is  nailed  into 
position,  the  wheels  fitted  on,  and  the  front  axle  screwed  onto  the  bolster. 
This  wagon  is  strong  and  should  last  a  long  time  and  afford  much  wholesome 
pleasure. 


g 

o 


90 


EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 


FLYING  GOOSE 

The  body,  platform  and  wheels  (Fig.  17)  are  of  1/4"  stock.  The  wings  are 
a  little  thinner.  Saw  out  one  body  and  two  wings  and  bore  holes  for  cords, 
as  shown  in  the  drawing.  Saw  out  the  platform  and  four  wheels,  and  finish 
them  carefully.  The  front  wheels  turn  on  1"  flat-headed  nails  that  are 
driven  into  the  edge  of  the  platform  3/4"  from  the  end.  The  rear  wheels  are 
driven  onto  a  wire  axle  which  turns  in  two  wire  staples  that  are  driven  into 
the  bottom  of  the  platform,  3/4"  from  the  end  and  1/4"  from  each  edge.  In 
driving  these  staples,  take  thought  to  avoid  splitting  the  platform.  Also, 
when  boring  holes  thru  the  center  of  the  four  wheels,  take  care  to  secure 
proper  direction  and  sizes  of  holes  for  a  running  fit  in  the  front  wheels  and  a 


Fig.  17. 

press  fit  onto  the  axle  in  the  rear  wheels.  Hold  the  body  with  foot  up,  and 
nail  the  platform  onto  it.  With  round-nose  pliers  make  the  connecting  rods 
from  No.  12  wire  with  the  eyes  neatly  shaped  and  at  right  angles  to  each 
other.  Attach  the  rods  to  the  wings  by  staples  so  the  joints  will  work  freely 
without  too  much  play.  Attach  the  other  ends  of  the  rods  to  the  outer  faces 
of  the  rear  wheels  by  means  of  short  flat-headed  nails.  The  nails  pass  thru 
the  eyes  of  the  rods  and  are  driven  into  the  wheels  1/4"  from  the  outer  rims. 
The  nails  in  the  two  wheels  must  be  in  line  with  each  other,  as  they  act  as 
cranks  to  actuate  the  wings.  After  the  rear  axle  is  assembled  and  fastened 
in  place,  the  wings  are  fastened  to  the  body. 


92  EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 

The  parts  of  the  wings  that  touch  the  body  must  have  been  rounded  off,  as 
shown  in  section  on  the  drawing.  The  edges  are  removed  from  the  holes  so 
as  not  to  wear  the  cord. 

A  heavy  strong  twine  may  be  used  for  hinging  the  wings  to  the  body. 
Each  of  the  two  hinges  is  formed  by  slipping  the  end  of  the  cord  up  thru  the 
wing,  then  thru  the  body,  then  down  thru  the  second  wing,  and  back  thru 
the  body;  then  tie  the  ends  in  a  square  knot  under  the  first  wing.  Adjust  all 
parts  accurately  so  they  are  not  too  loose  and  yet  work  without  friction. 

This  goose  may  be  painted  white  with  gray  stripes  on  the  wings,  red  beak, 
foot  and  wheels,  and  green  platform. 

Attach  a  string  or  slender  stick  to  the  end  of  the  platform  to  roll  it  on  the 
floor. 

Watch  the  flying  goose  and  see  if  she  can  rise  by  flapping  her  wings. 


THE  DODO  BIRD 

Until  recently  this  bird  has  been  considered  extinct,  but  is  here  revived  to 
show  what  it  may  have  appeared  like.  In  this  case  it  has  chosen  to  peram- 
bulate on  four  wheels  and  maintain  a  bobbing  motion  of  the  head  and  body  by 
means  of  a  connecting  rod  between  the  breast  and  a  crank  on  the  front  axle. 

The  body  swings  on  a  pivot  between  two  uprights  which  we  will  call  the 
wings.  These  wings  are  held  apart  by  a  piece  between  the  feet,  which  is 
slightly  thicker  than  the  body  to  give  the  body  freedom  of  motion. 

The  two  base  pieces  are  fastened  onto  the  outside  of  the  feet  by  three 
1-1/2"  brads  driven  in  from  each  side.  The  front  end  of  the  base  is  held 
together  by  a  piece  3/4"  square  and  3/8"  thick,  which  is  also  the  thickness  of 
the  base  pieces  and  wheels.  The  body  and  wings  are  of  1/4"  stock. 

Make  saw  cuts  1/8"  deep  across  the  bottom  of  the  base  pieces  to  form 
bearings  for  the  two  wire  axles,  one  1/2"  from  the  rear,  and  the  other  1-1/4" 
from  the  front  end  of  the  base.  The  axles  should  turn  freely  in  these  cuts, 


94  EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 

and  nails  bent  over  them  will  secure  them  in  their  places.  The  parts  are 
colored  in  gay  contrasting  colors  before  assembling.  The  body  is  pivoted 
between  the  wings  and  the  piece  between  the  feet  is  fastened.  Then  the 
base  is  assembled  and  fastened  to  the  outside  of  the  feet  of  the  dodo. 

Before  inserting  the  axles  into  the  wheels,  the  ends  should  be  hammered  a 
little  flat  to  prevent  them  from  turning  in  the  wheels.  It  should  be  a  tight 
fit.  Next,  put  the  axles  into  the  cuts,  and  fasten.  Slip  a  fine  nail  thru  the 
hole  in  the  upper  end  of  the  connecting  rod,  and  drive  it  thru  the  breast  of 
the  bird ,  and  bend  the  end.  Then  put  the  lower,  or  forked,  end  of  the  connect- 
ing rod  over  the  crank  on  the  front  axle  and  secure  it  by  a  brad. 

When  rolling  along  on  the  floor,  the  dodo  should  bob  its  head  in  a  most 
polite  manner  in  recognition  of  being  well  put  together. 


ROCKING-HORSE  AND  RIDER 

The  body  of  the  horse  is  shown  full  size  and  may  be  sawed  from  3/8"  wood. 
All  the  other  parts  should  be  made  of  1/4"  wood  and  have  the  grain  run 
lengthwise. 

Two  fore  and  two  hind  legs  are  required.  The  upper  end  of  each  leg  is 
tapered  off  on  the  side  that  fits  against  the  body  so  that  the  feet  will  be  far 
enough  apart  to  be  fastened  on  the  inside  of  the  rockers  (see  end  view  B). 
Each  pair  of  legs  should  be  fastened  to  the  body  with  a  nail  thru  the  three 
thicknesses  at  the  place  marked.  Saw  out  two  rockers  and  finish  to  true  and 
smooth  curves.  With  fine  brad  fasten  the  feet  on  the  inside  of  the  rocker  at 
the  places  marked,  but  take  care  that  the  wood  does  not  split.  Saw  out 
three  rails  1"  long  and  3/8"  wide  to  be  fastened  onto  the  top  of  the  rockers 
with  two  fine  brads,  one  at  each  end  of  the  rocker  and  one  in  the  middle,  as 
indicated  on  the  drawing  by  the  letter  R.  The  upper  ends  of  the  legs  may 
now  be  secured  to  the  body  by  two  or  three  brads. 

Give  the  whole  a  general  touching  up  to  assure  strength  and  smoothness. 
Give  it  a  priming  coat  of  paint.  Let  dry  four  days.  Paint  saddle,  bridle, 
cross  rails  and  rocker  red,  and  the  body  and  legs  white.  Outline  eyes,  nose, 
hoofs  and  other  features  in  black,  and  the  rocking  horse  is  complete. 

The  body  of  the  rider  is  3/8",  arms  and  legs  3/16"  stock. 


Hi  PER 

FOR 
ROCKITTG 


EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 


97 


ANIMATED  ELEPHANT 

The  body  is  composed  of  three  thicknesses.  The  two  on  the  outside  are 
1/4"  thick,  the  one  in  between  is  3/8"  thick,  and  reaches  only  to  the  dotted 
line  (Fig.  18),  to  allow  room  for  the  head  which  is  3/8"  thick  and  moves  be- 
tween the  two  outside  pieces  with  1-1/4"  nail  as  pivot.  This  is  a  loose  joint. 

Saw  out  the  platform  and  wheels  to  dimensions.  The  connecting  rod 
should  be  of  wood  1/8"  thick  and  1/4"  wide.  A  hole  is  bored  near  the  end 


Fig.  18. 

that  is  pivoted  to  the  throat  of  the  elephant ;  in  the  other  end  is  a  fork  to  fit 
over  the  axle  crank  with  a  fine  hole  bored  at  right  angle  thru  the  connecting 
rod  for  a  brad  to  prevent  the  crank  from  slipping  out.  The  two  axles  are 
made  from  No.  12  steel  wire.  One  is  straight,  the  other  has  a  crank  in  the 
middle.  Flat  places  are  hammered  near  each  end  of  the  axles  so  that  they 
may  be  pressed  into  holes  in  the  wheels  and  not  turn.  Each  axle  is  held  to 
the  platform  by  two  staples  which  may  be  made  from  long  brads  by  cutting 
off  the  heads. 

Color  the  elephant  gray,  the  blanket  red  and  yellow,  the  platform  and 
connecting  rod  red,  and  the  wheels  yellow.     Fasten  the  platform  to  the 


98 


EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 


elephant  by  driving  nails  thru  it  into  the  feet.  Press  the  wheels  onto  the 
axles  and  fasten  the  axles  under  the  platform  so  they  move  freely.  Fit  head 
and  rod  in  places  so  all  connections  are  strong  and  move  without  friction. 
Attach  a  string  to  the  front  end  of  the  platform,  and  when  pulled  on  the  floor, 
the  elephant  will  swing  his  trunk  up  and  down  in  a  vicious  manner. 


ANIMATED 
ELEPHANT 


100 


EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 


THE  BUCKING  MULE 

Saw  out  of  3/8"  stock  the  bodies  of  the  mule  and  rider  (Fig.  19).  All  legs 
and  arms  are  of  3/1 6"  stock.  Two  circles  to  be  placed  between  the  man's 
arms  and  shoulders  are  of  1/4"  wood.  The  connecting  rod,  marked  Z,  Z 
(Fig.  20),  shown  full  size  and  of  3/8"  stock,  is  to  connect  the  fore  legs  of  the 
mule  and  the  crank  on  the  axle.  Fasten  the  legs  to  the  mule  and  arms  and 


Fig.  19. 

legs  to  the  rider  with  loose  joints.  Then  take  rod  Z,  Z,  and  make  the  fork- 
like  cut  in  the  wide  end  and  drill  a  small  hole  thru  it  at  right  angles  to  that 
cut.  This  is  for  the  nail  that  holds  the  crank  in  place.  Fasten  the  rod  se- 
curely between  the  fore  legs  of  the  mule  at  the  position  indicated.  The  tail  is 
then  fastened  with  two  1/2"  brads.  Paint  the  mule  and  rider  in  contrasting 
colors. 


102 


EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 


Next,  make  the  frame  and  wheels  as  follows:  Saw  out  two  5"  wheels  and 
bore  the  center  holes  to  fit  tight  on  the  wire  axle  and  to  run  true.  The  frame , 
the  handle,  the  sides  and  end  are  shaped  from  1/2"  stock.  The  two  up- 
right pieces  are  made  of  3/8"  stock  and  securely  fastened  on  the  inner  faces 
of  the  sides.  Then  the  sides  are  nailed  to  the  end  piece  and  the  handle. 
Cuts  are  sawed  into  the  lower  edge  of  the  sides,  2"  from  the  end  to  form  a 


CftfOJ 


Fig.  20. 


bearing  for  the  axle.  Paint  wheels  red  and  frame  green.  The  axle  is  best 
made  by  holding  the  wire  in  a  vise.  First,  make  bends  3/8"  on  each  side  of 
the  middle  point.  Then  make  the  second  pair  of  bends  1-1/4"  from  the 
middle.  Near  each  end  of  the  axle,  flattened  places  are  hammered  so  that, 
when  driven  into  the  wheels,  they  will  not  turn.  Drive  the  wheels  onto  the 
axle.  Put  the  axle  in  place,  drive  nails  into  the  sides,  and  bend  them  over 
the  axle  to  hold  it  in  place.  Take  the  mule,  put  the  projection  from  the 
body  between  the  two  uprights  on  the  frame,  insert  a  1-1/2"  nail  thru  the 
three  holes,  and  bend  the  end  back.  Join  the  connecting  rod  to  the  crank. 
Stride  the  rider  on  the  mule  and  insert  a  nail  thru  his  thighs  and  the  back  of 
the  mule.  With  a  neat  cord  connect  the  hands  to  the  mouth  of  the  mule,  for 
a  bridle.  Take  hold  of  the  handle  and  watch  the  mule  gallop  when  you 
push  him  along. 


FOR 
0UCKI7IG  MULE 


104  EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 

FOX-AND-GOOSE  GAME 

This  game  is  played  by  two  people  on  a  board  with  33  holes,  as  shown  in  the 
drawing.  The  board  may  be  made  either  square  or  octagonal.  The  octagon 
is  made  from  a  square  by  placing  one  point  of  the  compass  at  a  corner  and 
the  other  point  at  the  center  of  the  board.  With  each  corner  in  turn  as  a 
center,  draw  arcs  intersecting  the  edges  of  the  board.  Connect  these  points 
of  intersection  across  the  corners  of  the  board;  saw  off  the  four  triangles. 
Smooth  the  edges  and  chamfer.  Lay  out  and  bore  the  holes.  Make  26 
pegs  to  fit  loose.  Leave  24  white  for  the  geese  and  color  2  red  for  the  foxes. 

In  playing  the  game,  all  the  pegs  are  put  in  their  places.  The  foxes  at 
Nos.  9  and  11;  the  geese  at  7,  8,  12,  13,  and  consecutively  up  to  33.  The 
foxes  and  geese  can  move  on  the  lines  only,  in  any  direction  from  one  hole  to 
the  next.  A  fox  can  also  jump  over  a  goose  and  take  it,  provided  the  hole 
just  beyond  it  is  vacant.  In  fact,  the  fox  can  jump  and  take  several  geese  in 
various  directions  if  conditions  permit.  The  geese  can  not  jump,  but  they 
can  move  so  as  to  hem  in  the  foxes  and  make  it  impossible  for  them  to  move. 
This  means  that  the  foxes  have  lost  the  game.  In  starting  the  game,  the 
player  having  the  foxes  gets  the  first  move.  His  aim  is  to  jump  and  capture 
all  the  geese  and  win  the  game.  Each  player  takes  turn  in  moving.  When 
crowding  a  goose  in  on  a  fox,  the  player  always  has  another  goose  behind  it  so 
that  the  fox  can  not  jump  it.  This  game  is  one  of  the  kind  that  requires 
foresight  and  study.  It  is  highly  interesting  and  entertaining,  and  by  expe- 
rience, players  may  become  quite  expert  at  the  game. 

Solitaire — This  same  board  may  also  be  used  for  the  solitaire  game.  How- 
ever, that  requires  32  pegs.  They  are  put  in  all  the  holes  except  No.  17. 
The  object  is  to  jump  and  take  all  the  pegs  but  one,  and  it  must  land  in  hole 
17.  Unaided,  this  is  difficult  to  do,  and  it  would  take  a  long  time  for  a  per- 
son to  discover  a  solution.  For  this  reason,  the  reader  is  presented  with  the 
following  "Key":  5  jumps  to  17  and  takes  10,  12  to  10  and  takes  11,  etc.; 
3  to  11,  1-3,  18-6,  3-11,  30-18,  27-25,  13-27,  24-26,  27-25,  22-24,  31-23, 
33-31,  16-28,  31-23,  4-16,  7-9,  21-7,  10-8,  7-9,  24-22,  22-8,  8-10,  10-12, 
12-26,  26-24,  17-15,  29-17,  18-16,  15-17. 


FOX-AHD-GEE3E  GAME 


106  EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 

NINE  MEN'S  MILL 

This  is  a  game  that  is  played  by  two  persons  and  is  as  fascinating  as  it  is 
old.  The  upper  part  of  the  board  is  3/8"  thick  and  has  24  holes  bored  thru 
it,  as  shown  in  the  drawing.  The  lower  board  is  7-1/2"  square  and  1/4" 
thick,  and  extends  1/4"  beyond  the  top  board  on  all  sides.  The  grain  in  the 
two  boards  should  run  at  right  angles  when  fastened  together.  The  18  pegs 
are  3/8"  in  diameter  and  1"  long.  Each  player  has  a  set  of  9  pegs,  the  sets 
being  differently  colored.  In  starting  a  game,  each  player  takes  his  turn  in 
putting  a  peg  into  a  hole  till  all  the  pegs  are  put  down.  Then  they  take  turns 
in  moving  the  pegs.  A  peg  may  be  moved  from  one  hole  to  the  next  and 
only  along  rows  parallel  with  the  edges  of  the  board,  not  along  the  rows  that 
run  from  corners  of  the  board  to  its  center.  That  is,  along  rows  1,  2,  3  or  2, 
5,  8,  but  not  along  rows  1 ,  4,  7.  The  object  of  a  player  in  putting  down  pegs 
and  in  moving  is  to  get  a  Mill ;  that  is,  get  3  pegs  in  a  row  parallel  with  the 
edges  of  the  board.  For  example:  Pegs  in  holes  4,  5,  6  or  2,  5,  8  makes  a 
Mill,  but  not  3,  6,  9.  When  a  player  gets  a  Mill,  he  can  take  one  of  his  oppo- 
nent's pegs  that  is  not  in  a  Mill.  Another  aim  of  a  player  is  to  place  his  pegs 
so  that  he  prevents  his  opponent  from  getting  a  Mill.  When  the  pegs  of  one 
of  the  players  have  all  been  taken  except  3,  then  he  is  allowed  to  jump  any- 
where on  the  board.  When  the  pegs  are  all  gone  but  two,  then  the  game  is 
lost.  When  a  player  can  get  5  pegs  into  holes  situated  as  7,  8,  9  and  4,  6, 
then  he  has  a  double  Mill  by  moving  from  8  to  5  and  from  5  to  8,  etc.,  and 
pick  one  of  his  opponent's  pegs  for  each  move. 


Mfirr<5  MILL 


108 


EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 


DISK  PUZZLE 

This  problem  consists  of  a  base,  three  spindles  and  seven  disks  of  different 
diameters.  The  spindles  are  fitted  tight  into  holes  in  the  base  and  rounded 
at  the  top  so  the  disks  will  slide  over  freely.  The  seven  disks  are  laid  out  on 
the  wood  with  compass,  and  to  prevent  splitting  the  holes  are  all  bored  be- 
fore the  sawing  is  done. 

The  parts  may  receive  a  finish  of  stain  and  two  or  three  coats  of  shellac. 
Polish  with  No.  1/2  sand-paper  between  each  coat. 

Puzzle — Place  all  disks  on  one  spindle,  decreasing  in  sizes  upward.  The 
object  is  to  transfer  the  disks  to  one  of  the  other  spindles  and  to  be  in  the 
same  order.  In  doing  this,  never  have  more  than  one  disk  at  a  time  removed 
from  the  spindles,  and  never  place  a  larger  disk  on  top  of  a  smaller  one. 


Fig.  21. 


BALL  PUZZLE 

At  first  it  is  not  evident  why  this  is  called  a  ball  puzzle,  but,  when  let  into 
the  secret,  most  people  see  at  once  a  good  reason  for  naming  it  so.  The 
wooden  ball  or  marble  is  hidden  from  sight  inside  of  the  wood  and  may  be 
shifted  in  position  from  the  middle  to  the  upper  piece  of  the  puzzle  and  vice 
versa  (Fig.  21). 

The  problem  is  to  slide  the  middle  piece  off  of  the  pin  that  projects  up  from 
the  lower  piece  and  swing  it  around  its  pivot.  This  pivot  is  a  1-1/2"  round- 
headed  screw,  fitting  loosely  in  the  upper  two  and  fixed  in  the  lower  piece. 
A  1/2"  hole  is  bored  thru  the  middle  and  1/2"  deep  in  the  upper  piece  to  hold 
the  7/16"  ball.  This  hole  is  bored  so  it  touches  the  hole  for  the  screw.  In 
the  middle  piece,  the  screw  can  slide  into  it.  In  order  to  make  the  ball  leave 


DISK  PUZZLE 


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110 


EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 


its  position  in  the  middle  piece,  the  puzzle  must  be  held  upside  down.  The 
drawings  show  the  puzzle  both  closed  and  open,  and  supply  directions  for 
constructing  this  interesting  problem. 

Finish  with  stain  and  two  coats  of  shellac.  This  puzzle  may  be  a  source 
of  much  genuine  amusement  when  a  circle  of  friends  come  together  and  all 
want  a  hand  at  opening  it,  each  having  his  advice  to  give  how  to  solve  this 
mysterious  problem. 


EDUCATIONAL     TOYS  111 

APPENDIX 
KNOTS  AND  BRAIDS 

TV/TOST  of  us  are  called  upon,  in  the  course  of  our  daily  duties,  whether 
*•"•  afloat  or  ashore,  in  camp  or  at  home,  to  hitch  up  pack  animals,  do  up 
packages,  equipments  and  outfits,  and  make  fastenings  on  sails,  tents,  scaf- 
folding and  play  apparatus.  This  involves  the  tying  of  a  great  number  of 
knots  and  in  many  cases  life,  and  limb  depend  upon  the  correct  tying  of  those 
knots.  The  seamen,  textile  workers  and  civil  engineers  are  pastmasters  of 
the  art.  Our  scouts,  sailors  and  soldiers  are  taught  knot-tying  as  an  essen- 
tial factor  in  their  training.  Would  it  not  seem  a  part  of  wisdom,  for  the 
sake  of  safety  and  economy  in  time  and  good  nature,  for  everybody  to  master 
these  knot  problems?  It  would,  at  least,  be  a  very  practical  part  of  the  train- 
ing for  children  in  the  schools. 

They  should  be  taught  knot-tying  and  its  application  in  an  intelligent  and 
thoro  manner,  and  have  frequent  practice-drill  therein,  till  it  becomes  second 
nature  to  them. 

When  a  knot  is  tied,  it  must  be  pulled  together  tight,  so  as  to  stay.  Other- 
wise, especially  if  the  cord  is  stiff,  the  loops  will  slide  apart  or  flop  out  of  po- 
sition, and  the  knot  will  come  loose.  A  knot  derives  its  strength  and  reli- 
ability from  the  friction  between  its  different  parts.  When  tension  is  ap- 
plied on  a  knot,  the  two  parts  which  lie  alongside  of  each  other  should  move 
in  the  reverse  directions  and  produce  a  maximum  amount  of  friction,  as  the 
ropes  tend  to  slip. 

One  may  readily  learn  to  tie  the  different  knots  by  carefully  following  the 
accompanying  drawings.  Procure  a  slender,  flexible  rope,  bend  it  into  the 
shape  shown  in  the  drawing,  and  go  over  and  under,  as  indicated,  so  that  the 
parts  will  be  in  the  correct  relative  positions.  Begin  by  making  the  simple 
knots,  and,  later,  tackle  the  more  complex  ones.  Also  learn  their  names. 

NAMES  OF  KNOTS  AND  BRAIDS 

1 .  Overhand  knot — to  prevent  unraveling  of  rope,  starting  of  a  square  knot ;  also  a  stop  knot. 

2.  Figure-eight  knot — used  for  a  stop  knot. 

3.  Boat  knot — used  on  sails  and  rigging. 

4.  Slip  knot — used  to  fasten  rope  end  to  a  post. 

5.  Flemish  loop — stays  tight,  will  jam. 

6.  Stevedore  knot — will  not  jam. 

7.  Sheet  bend  or  weaver's  knot — for  joining  two  ends. 

8.  Square  or  reef  knot — for  joining  two  cords — very  useful,  is  non-slipping. 

9.  Granny  knot — most  people  confuse  it  with  the  square  knot.     It  will  slip. 

10.  Thief  knot— will  slip. 

11.  Carrick  bend — used  on  top  of  gin  pole  or  mast  to  hold  it  erect;  the  four  ends  are  fastened  to  the 
ground. 

12.  Carrick  bend — used  to  join  two  ropes. 

13.  Bowline — a  very  useful  non-slipping  loop. 


112  EDUCATIONAL     TOYS 

14.  Clove  hitch — an  effective  means  for  fastening  rope  to  a  post  or  ring. 

15.  Timber  hitch — used  for  pulling  logs. 

16.  Handcuff  hitch — used  to  convey  prisoners. 

17.  Sheepshank — to  decrease  the  length  of  a  rope. 

18.  Bowknot — is  tied  like  the  square  knot,  but  with  ends  doubled  back  in  tying  the  latter  half — 
used  on  neckties  and  ribbons. 

19.  Spanish  bowline — used  as  boatswain's  chair. 

20.  Wall  knot — used  by  electricians  as  a  stop  on  drop-cord. 

21.  Wall  knot  crowned — a  neat  rope-end  finish,  to  prevent  unraveling. 

22.  Three-strand  flat  braid. 

23.  Four-strand  flat  braid,  begun. 

24.  Four-strand  flat  braid,  continued — the  right  strand  goes^over,  the  left  one  goes  under,  and  then 
is  passed  to  the  right,  in  front  of  the  middle  strand. 

25.  Six-strand  flat  braid,  begun. 

26.  Six-strand  flat  braid,  continued — note  that  each  strand  goes  from  one  side  clear  to  the  other, 
before  turning  around  and  goes  over  and  under,  alternately,  in  crossing  the  other  strands. 

27.  Chain  knot — is  begun  like  a  slip  knot. 

28.  Chain  knotting,  continued — each  loop  is  pulled  taut. 

29.  Double  chain  knotting— is  started  like  the  single  chain  knot,  but  the  second  loop  is  formed  from 
the  free  end,  and  slipped  thru  from  the  same  side  as  the  first.     Both  ends  are  used,  alternately,  and  the 
loops  are  pulled  taut.     It  makes  a  beautiful  cord,  triangular  in  shape. 

30.  Genoese  braid,  begun — two  cords  are  used,  one  end  of  each  is  used  as  a  core,  tho  a  thicker  core 
may  be  used,  and  with  the  other  two  ends,  in  turn,  loops  are  drawn  around  the  core. 

31.  Genoese  braid,  continued — makes  a  handsome  flat  braid. 

32.  Watch  fob — may  be  made  of  three  or  more  strings  or  ribbons.     Four  strings  are  used  in  this 
case.     Take  two  shoe  strings  and  double  them.     Tie  thread  around  them,  about  two  inches  from  the 
loops.     Hold  the  loops  in  the  left  hand,  with  the  ends  up.     Name  them  A,  B,  C,  D,  as  is  shown  in  the 
drawing.     First,  bend  A  to  the  right;  bend  D  over  A,  and  away  from  you;  bend  C  over  D,  and  to  the 
left;  bend  B  over  C,  and  toward  you,  and  slip  the  end  under  the  loop  of  A.     Second,  take  string  A  and 
double  it  back  to  the  left;  bend  B  over  A,  and  away  from  you;  bend  C  over  B,  and  to  the  right;  bend 
D  over  C,  and  toward  you,  and  slip  the  end  under  loop  at  A.     The  third  step  is  like  the  first,  and  the 
fourth  like  the  second.     When  finished,  slip  the  loops  thru  your  watch-ring,  open  the  two  loops  and 
slip  the  watch  fob  thru  them.     The  charm  is  neatly  fastened  to  the  finishing  ends. 

33.  Banister  bar — is  made  by  tying  the  overhand  knot  over  a  core  of  any  desired  thickness. 

34.  Banister  bar,  continued — the  process  of  tying  this  knot  is  as  follows:     Hold  the  left  strand 
horizontally  behind  the  core;  reach  under  it  at  the  right  of  the  core  and  take  the  right  strand,  bring  it 
forward  and  to  the  left  across  the  front  of  the  core,  and  then  back  at  the  left  of  the  core,  thru  the  Idop 
formed  by  the  left  strand.     Continue  by  repeating  this  process. 

35.  Solomon's  knot — this  is  started  like  the  banister  bar,  but,  instead  of  tying  all  the  knots  alike, 
the  tying  is  done,  in  turn,  first  with  the  right-hand  strand,  then  with  the  left.     Each  strand  will  thus 
remain  on  the  same  side  of  the  core  as  at  the  start.     The  strand  in  front  of  the  core  is  used  continually 
for  tying  the  knot  by  the  left  and  right  hand,  alternately,  as  the  strand  moves  from  side  to  side.      It  is  a 
series  of  left  and  right  overhand  knots  over  a  core. 

36.  Four-strand  round  braid — is  very  pretty,  and  well  repays  any  difficulty  in  mastering  it.     It  is 
not  as  easy  to  illustrate,  by  drawing,  the  process  of  making  a  round  braid  as  a  flat  one;  however,  by 
carefully  following  the  movement  of  each  strand  in  the  illustration,  while  manipulating  the  four 
strings,  one  will  soon  gain  success  and  also  much  satisfaction. 

First,  hold  the  four  strands  in  the  left  hand,  as  in  the  beginning  of  the  flat  braid,  but,  instead  of 
taking  the  right  strand,  reach  in,  just  in  the  left  of  the  right  strand,  and,  from  behind,  take  the  left 
strand,  bring  it  forward  and  across  in  front  from  right  to  left.  Second,  exchange  the  places  of  the 
words,  right  and  left,  and  repeat  the  above-described  process. 

Referring  to  the  drawing,  reach  in  at  B,  and  from  behind  at  the  right,  below  x4,  take  C;  bring  it  for- 
ward and  across  B,  at  x7.  Next,  hold  the  braid  in  the  left  hand  and,  with  the  right,  reach  in  at  D  and 
take  A  from  behind,  and  bring  it  forward  and  across  C,  at  E,  as  is  shown  by  dotted  lines. 

Braiding  with  three  strands,  or  as  many  more  as  desired,  may  be  done  with  ropes,  strings  of  beads, 
rich-colored  cords  and  ribbons,  or  basketry  materials,  for  making  many  useful  and  beautiful  articles, 
such  as  chains,  belts,  hangings,  bags,  portieres  and  wicker  work  for  baskets,  lamp  shades  and  chairs. 


TOY  PATTERNS 

By  MICHAEL    C.    DANK 

4  COLLECTION  of  full-size  toy  patterns.  Toys  which  make  a  strong  appeal  to  the 
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the  boy  from  six  to  twelve  years  of  age,  and  in  the  school  is  a  fascinating  manual  train- 
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By  HARRIS  W.  MOORE. — A  popular  boys'  book  illustrating  42  projects  over- 
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COPING  SAW  WORK 

By  BEN  W.  JOHNSON. — Presents  drawings  and  suggestions  for  a  course  of 
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By  CHARLES  M.  MILLER. — An  authoritative  and  comprehensive  treatment 
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BIRD  HOUSES  BOYS  CAN  BUILD 

By  ALBERT  F.  SIEPERT.— A  book  of  rare  interest  to  boys.  It  is  written  in 
the  boy  spirit  and  combines  the  charm  of  nature  with  the  allurements  of  continuation 
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